Sorry for the delay in posts . . . but at least we now have a lot to report.  Since we left Argentina, we have spent the last 3 weeks in Chile (we also returned, briefly, to Argentina, but more on that below) -- an incredibly diverse country that has a lot to offer.

Chile, or at least Santiago -- and the Providencia neighborhood in particular -- is, in many respects, a lot like home.  Santiago is a very modern city, with the same amenities and prices we face at home in the USA.  Santiago also, however, has a uniquely latin american vibe -- but you do not really sense that vibe unless you are in the city for a while.  The rest of Chile is also fairly modern, in many respects, and makes for very easy travel.  Undobutedly, Chile has its problems and poorer neighborhoods, but we have not really seen those parts of Chile.  Many Chilenos like to say that Chile is very different from the rest of S America, and we would have to agree.  At the same time, however, the modernity and the conveniences make Chile, culturally speaking, a little more bland than its neighbors.  All of that being said, Chile is a wonderful destination, particularly for people who want to experience S America without sacrificing too much comfort.

We have spent a lot of time in Santiago -- not really doing a whole lot in terms of tourist things, but just relaxing and enjoying ourselves.  We have had a great time staying with and talking to Mauricio and his roommates (a friend of mine that I met while in Africa).  They have been tremendous hosts and have provided us with invaluable insights into Chile and its people -- making our trip a very special experience (traveling is always better when you have an ïnside angle, as opposed to just being a tourist).  Santiago, as noted, is a very modern city -- in many respects, it looks just like any north american city.  At the same time, though, the Plaza de Armas and surrounds is filled with fascinating and huge colonial buildings.  The Plaza itself is abuzz with artesans, artists, and local people selling their wares.  The city also has several good museums -- in particular the pre colombian art museum, which is the best of its kind I have ever seen.  When not sight-seeing, we have spent most of our time just hanging out with friends, watching movies, eating good food, and relaxing.  Oh, and saving $$ to afford what you will read about next.

For 4 days and 3 nights, we lived in luxury -- albeit the adventurous kind -- on the Mare Australis cruiseship.  For a description even better than my words, go to www.australis.com and look at the Ushaia to Punta Arenas trip -- ignore the prices, though, because we got a much better deal.

From Santiago, we flew to Ushaia, Argentina -- back to the land of cheap, amazing steak houses for at least a couple of nights.  While there, we visited Tierra del Fuego NP and rode the old convict Ënd of the World Train.  The scenery was magical and the history was even more interesting -- especially since the prison operated until 1960.  Imagine being sentenced to a prison which is, quite literally, at the end of the world.  We also hiked up to Marino Glacier, just a few kilometers outside of the town.  The setting was beautiful and the glacier was fantastic -- we actually got quite close, but did not walk onto the glacier.

Thereafter, we boarded the Mare Australis.  The boat was fantastic -- in fact, our room on the ship was nicer than most of the places we have stayed throughout our travels.  The food was incredible, and the bar was always open (and free -- well, not really).  The ship´s crew was knowledgeable, helpful, and friendly -- every day they gave presentations and lectures, ranging from mixing cocktails to the Magellanic penguins . . . from the history of Patagonia to tying sailor´s knots.  While the ship had plenty of activities to offer, there was also a lot of down time -- to relax and just sit and watch the incredible, breath-taking scenery passing by.  Whether we were cruising the Beagle Channel, the Strait of Magellan, around Cape Horn, or Chico Fjord, looking out of the huge windows in the sky lounge (or just standing on the deck) was a surreal experience.

The most amazing part of the cruise, I think, was just stopping and thinking about where we were -- quite literally at the end of the world.  I just kept looking at the map and gps chart on the wall, shaking my head, and thinking, Ï cannot believe we are really here.¨

We also went on some unreal excursions -- on zodiac rafts!!!!  We stopped on Magdalena Island in the Strait of Magellan to marvel at over 120,000 penguins and their nests -- they just come right up to you!!!!  We stopped in Wuluaia Bay, hiked, and just marveled at the tranquility and the view of the Darwin Mountain Range.  We zodiaced (is that a word?) to within feet of Pia Glacier -- a huge glacier that resembles the NYC skyline -- in the iceberg riddled Chico Fjord.  And perhaps most incredibly, we landed, literally, on Cape Horn and walked around the Cape.  That one, I honestly could not believe.  We were even able to send my dad a postcard -- he deserves it, given the fact that he is the best house and dog sitter ever.

Finally, the people on our cruise were fantastic.  Larry and Betty Lou, Bill and Corrine, Pauline and Gilbert -- our dining companions -- really made our trip special.  You could not really imagine a more diverse group.  In fact, I felt I had a better chance of being struck by lightning than ever ending up in such a group . . . but that just made the experience even more fun and worthwhile.  All of our dining companions have had so many traveling and life experiences, and I cannot emphasize enough how much fun we had (we did not, however, have howler monkey for dinner). 

The only bad part of the cruise was the end, when I, literally, had to drag Jenn off the boat.

The rest of our Chilean adventure was also fantastic, but probably pales in comparison to the cruise.  That being said, we spent 2 days in Torres del Paine NP -- one of the most famous parks in all of the americas.  And it is easy to see why.  We went on some wonderful hikes and were treated to stunning views of the paine grande and the horns.  Our hotel provided the best view, however, because it sat right on the banks of iceberg filled Grey Lake . . . and provided an unreal panaromic view of the Horns and Paine Grande.  Although the food at the hotel was OUTRAGEOUSLY overpriced (as was the room), it was well worth the $$$ and the experience.  Unfortunately, and thanks to a dumb tourist, part of the park was closed due to a fire.  While the tourist left Chile after paying only $200 US, the park suffered irreperable damage.  Nonetheless, we had an incredible experience and would highly recommend TdelPNP to anyone.  The views and glaciers are absolutely breathtaking and jawdropping.

The last leg of our adventure was a leisurely, one week long trek back to Santiago, via the Lakes District.  While not nearly as dramatic as patagonia , Tierra del Fuego, or Torres del Paine, the lakes district is very beautiful in its own right -- and very relaxing.  We ate amazing cakes and pastries and wandered the streets of Puerto Varas, with awesome views of volcan osorno and lake llanghue.  We visited a great history museum and the sea lions feasting at the local fish market in Valdivia.  And we went to incredible hot springs and hiked in Parque Huerquehue near Pucon -- another beautiful town dominated by a lake and a volcano (both named villarica).

Aside from the long, overnight bus ride from Pucon to Santiago (on the cheap bus -- go Jenn the hard traveler), we had a great time.  Chile is, as stated, so diverse and has so much to offer -- and we have not (yet??) been either to Easter Island (a world wonder) or to the north (which has the Attacama -- the driest in the world -- desert) . . . maybe after we come back from Ecuador??? 

Tonight, we leave for Ecuador, so I am sure we will have more posts later.  We will spend a day in Panama City, and then head to Ecuador for our gallapogos islands and amazon jungle lodge adventures.