For 10 days, we lived the Discovery Channel.  We will do our best here to describe what we saw.

Itinerary:  Arusha to Tarangerie NP (2 days); Lake Manyara NP (1 day); Serengetti NP (3 full days, plus 2 half days); Ngorogoro Crater (1 day); and Lake Eyasi and the Hadzabe Tribe (1 day).

Our trip:  We camped the entire time, often without running water.  Our favorite place was in SNP --- Ikhoma Bush Camp, where we spent 3 nights.  The look on Jenn's face when she saw the "open air" toilet and shower was priceless.  Over time, she grew to love the campsite, except when she was attacked by biting ants while showering.  Our food was good and plentiful.  Our driver, Joseph, was great at spotting wildlife (while driving and w/o binoculars).  He also had a penchant for marathon game drives -- full days -- which was great, although we spent a lot of time in the car (a necessary evil of game viewing, unless you want to get attacked by wild animals).  Our nights were spent in the open African bush -- surrounded by beautiful skies at night and the sounds and sights of Africa.  We heard lions roaring at night and even had hyenas in our campsite, which made late night bathroom trips interesting to say the least.  A truly amazing experience. 

Animals viewed (probably missing a few):  lions (females, males, & cubs), leopards, cheetahs, a ton of birds (a variety of eagles, vultures, storks, pelicans, hornbills, and a lot of others), a porcupine, bush babies, hippos, crocs, impalas, thompson & grant gazelles, giraffes, elephants, elands, topis, zebras, wildebeests, red hartebeests, a puff adder (at very close range -- too close probably), a cobra, agama lizards, hyrax, spring hares, serval cats, monitor lizards, dik diks, buffaloes, flamingoes, hyenas, jackals, warthogs, babboons (tons everywhere), chameleons, verveet/blue/colobus monkeys, ostriches, and . . . .  The only 1 we missed was the elusive rhino.

Overview of the Parks:

Tarangerie:  when you think of "Africa," TNP meets the bill -- wide open grasses and plains, waterholes and rives (largely dried up this time of year), animals everywhere . . . but not many people or cars.  TNP is also famous for its beautiful baobab trees.  A truly amazing setting to see animals.  We had 2 long game drives here.

Lake M NP:  incredible and very few people.  So different from the rest.  The settings were varied and beautiful -- lush jungle & forest, a river littered with hippos, the imposing rift valley walls, a soda/salt lake, grasslands & plains, hot springs, and bush forest.  A compact park and an anomaly in the midst of the sprawling grassland plains.

Serengetti:  classic africa with its "sea of open grass" and acacia trees, but much more diverse than I thought.  We saw so much of this park -- with our multiple days and marathon game drives -- grasslands and savannahs, rolling hills, bushland/forest, waterholes and partially dried up river beds, and beautiful kopjes (rock outcroppings).

Lake Eyasi:  not a NP, but a dried up soda lake; local villages and the African bush at its finest.  Here, we spent a few hours visiting the Hadzabe Tribe -- at least one family.  The Hadazabe are, in 2004, one of a few remaining tribes in the world that are still truly nomadic.  They live in the bush (they sleep under the stars) -- really live in the bush.  We followed 2 of the men on a hunt (which meant we wandered through the bush for 2 hours), watched them dance (and danced with them), and participated in bow and arrow target practice.  A once in a lifetime experience.

Wildlife Hi-Lights:  In addition to the host of animals we saw, we saw many amazing behaviors.  The first time you see lions . . . wow.  But then after a few times seeing them sleep (which they do 22 hrs a day), you want to see action.  We saw plenty in SNP.  For example:  during a pre-sunrise drive, we watched a female, for about 10 minutes and about 10 feet from the car, dragging an impala she had just killed back to her cubs.  We later saw 2 lions mating -- actually "doing it."  Unreal.  We also saw, again about 10 feet from the car and with no other cars around, a whole pride feasting on a freshly killed buffalo. First, the male ate -- we saw and heard him tearing the flesh off the bones.  When he was done, the scene of the females lunging on and attacking the carcass was awe inspiring.  While the male was eating, we sat in awe as 6 cubs fought for space on their mother's breast-- as she nursed them for several minutes.

At Lake M, we sat and watched 26 giraffes moving beautifully across the plains.  Several of the males fought by wrapping their necks around each other and butting heads -- a mating ritual.  We also saw 2 giraffes actually mating!!!  Incredible.  The giraffes move quickly when they canter, but appear to move in slow motion.  Also at Lake M, we saw baboons fighting, grooming, and nursing. 

We also saw amazing elephant behaviors.  At Tarangerie, we saw 2 bulls lock tusks and trunks.  At Lake M, we watched them move gracefully across the plains with a stark white soda lake in the background.  We also saw, at Lake M, a huge family eating.  The best, however, was when a baby elephant could not cross over a fallen log -- then his mother behind him lifting him up and pushing him over the log.

In Tarangerie, we saw a waterhole littered with hundreds of zebras and wildebeests in and around the water.  We also stopped in a gorge, where our car was surrounded by countless impalas, zebras, and giraffes.  This type of scene will forever be burned into our memories, and has to be seen to be believed or understood.

In SNP, we were allowed out of the car at a waterhole filled with about 50 hippos and 12 crocs.  We were, we thought, a little too close for comfort!!  We stood in awe as the hippos wrestled, spouted, grunted, and stared at us.  Just unreal.

In Ng Crater, we watched in awe as lions sprawled out on one side of the road, apparently full from their recent kill and feeding frenzy.  In the background, zebras and wildebeests mingled -- quite cautiously -- while hyenas tried to cross the plains and river -- always mindful of the lions nearby.  On the other side of the road, about 200 feet away, a pack of hyenas fought with jackals and vultures as they devoured the very remains of the animal that had, moments before, satiated the lions.  A scene like that -- like so many others we saw -- needs to be seen to be believed.

Words alone cannot capture the majesty of our safari -- or the grime that covered our bodies after 10 days of camping, not showering, and driving on Tanzania's dirt roads.  All we can say is, again, get out of your office and come to Tanzania.  You will be amazed and awed.  Karibu ("you are welcome" in Swahili).

See below for our other post today -- re:  wedding plans and Ethiopia.

After Et, we flew to Uganda, where we spent about 2 weeks.  Ug was much more developed than Et, but that is, of course, quite a relative statement.  When I think of Ug, I think of bicycles loaded down with bannanas, women in brightly colored dresses, bannana trees everywhere, and beautiful green rolling hills and valleys.  Ug was truly beautiful -- you can see why Churchill dubbed it the Pearl of Africa.

We spent a lot of time in Kampala . . . a great city -- very safe, good restaurants, and a great vibe -- but much more time than we would have liked.  Most of our time in Kampala was just transit stops, although we also ran a lot of errands.  Oh yeah, I also spent time at the police station and tourist board trying to deal with the safari driver named ssali who ripped us off (stole $$ and cut our safari short) . . . and Jenn spent a couple of days recovering from her malaria infection (she is fine -- do not worry). 

Our highlights were as follows:

-several relaxing days at a resort right on Lake Victoria (it even had a workout gym and a great pool)

-a game drive in QEP, during which we saw 4 lions (male, female, 2 cubs), waterbucks, elephants, Ug Kobs, and warthogs; a boat trip in QEP that was just amazing -- 2 hours on the Kazinga Channel, filled with elephants, buffalo, hippos (1 almost hit the boat), crocs, and beautiful birds.

-chimp trekking in Kibale Forest - we spent 1 1/2 hours following and watching wild chimps.  Incredible.  We would later see more chimps at the UWEC and at a Sanctuary on an island in Lake Vic, but nothing could top seeing them in the wild

-and the best for last . . . gorilla trekking in Bwindi NP.  After hiking for just under 2 hours . . . and by hiking I do not mean on a path, but right through an amazing jungle (follow the guy with the machete, literally) . . . we heard barking and quite a bit of noise.  Suddenly, we came around a corner, and sitting there was a female 200 lb mountain gorilla.  We froze in awe.  Moments later, we were quite startled by a tremendous commotion.  In a matter of seconds, a huge silverback covered about 15 feet . . . he sort of came out of nowhere.  He then stopped on a dime, sat down, and just crossed his arms.  Right off the Discovery Channel.  We then spent about 1 hour watching these gorillas, from anywhere from 5-15 feet away.  Of the 20 gorillas in the family, we got great views of about 6 of them, including the newborn baby.  All in all, probably the coolest, most awesome experience we have ever had.

Thus, Ug was great -- despite the problems we had with our driver.  We also had a guide named Lawrence who was just great.  Gorillas and chimps.  Get yourself out of your damn office and to Ug -- but first to C'town in late Sept / early Oct . . . one of the most beautiful cities on earth.  And SA has it all -- wildlife, culture, history, and activities.

Aug 4:  Sorry for the lack of posts, but internet access has not been readily available.  Below is a long post . . . covering Ethiopia, Uganda, and other matters.  Right now, we are in Arusha, Tanzania (at Buck Tilley's house).  Tomorrow, we depart for our 10 day safari.  We'll post about that later.  For now . . .

1) A tentative wedding plan is set.  Although we do not have an exact date yet, we are shooting for Capetown, SA -- in early October.  Since you would want to come for at least 2 weeks anyway, plan on coming in late September and staying through the 1st week of Oct.  Please email asap if you can come.  More details will follow.

2) Ethiopia:  We spent a little over 2 weeks traveling around Et.  Our route was:  Addis . . . same day fly to Bahir Dar (2 days) . . . bus to Gonder (2 days) . . . fly to Lalibela (3 days) . . . fly to Axum (2 days) . . . drive to Adigrat and then the next day to Mekele . . . fly to Addis . . . hole up in the Addis Sheraton for 5 days.

Et was . . . well, it really depends on who you ask.  Jenn now claims she actively disliked Et.  However, she also says she is glad she went and that she saw some very interesting things.  Personally, I don't think the girardia infection helped (she was laid up for a couple of days in Addis).  Moreover, I think Et was a rough intro to sub-saharan Africa.  On the whole, though, she is glad she went and she saw some incredible sites.  CHG will tell you that Et is, culturally and historically, one of (if not) the most fascinating places he has ever been.  The scenery was also fantastic -- a far cry from most people's ideas (myself included) about what Et would look like.  Far from being a barren desert, we saw big mountains (up to 3500 meters), fertile plains, huge valleys, and a lot of green countryside.  In fact, the N Highlands around which we traveled are the largest contiguous fertile area in Sub-Saharan Africa.  The scenery was, at times, awe-inspiring.  And those italians really know how to build roads through the mountains.

Culturally, Et is an amazing place.  Et is a sub-saharan african country, and yet it converted to christianity before Rome.  Since that time, in the 4th century, the church has dominated all aspects of life in Et -- amazing how much it dominates.  Moreover, the practices today are virtually unchanged since the 4th century.  Et is not coptic, but is the Et Orthodox Church.  Finally, the jewish influences are astounding (Ets believe the Ark of the Covenant is in Axum, and the role the Ark plays in their lives is significant).  I could go on for hours here, but I will not.

Highlights:  Bahir Dar -- Lake Tana (Africa's 2nd largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile) and its ancient, yet still operating monasteries; we spent the day on the lake, visiting some of these monasteries, with their reliquaries, manuscr ipts, and amazing medieval paintings; we also rode bikes through a village and saw hippos in the Nile.

Gonder -- 17th Century castles in the royal compound; better than most european castles; understand that, in sub-saharan Africa, these types of things simply do not exist.

Lalibela -- the rock hewn churches are, along with Angkor Wat, Macchu Pichu and the Pyramids, the most incredible sites I have ever seen.  How these 12th C churches were completed, no one can say for sure.  They are, literally, carved out of the turfa stone . . . and they are huge, I mean like cathedrals.  We also saw a mass -- these churches are not ruins.  I felt as though I was watching a scene out of the bible and that I had been transported back in time by about 2000 years.  Go to Lalibela.

Axum -- the ruins of one of the greatest, yet least known, ancient empires (1-7th C AD).  A good museum, tombs, and an unexplainable stele (obelisk) field.  I simply cannot understand why more people, historians included, do not know about this empire.

Axum - Adigrat - Mekele (2 days by car):  amazing mountains and incredible scenery, although a very rough ride.  We visited Yeha's moon temple (at 2500 BC, the oldest building in sub-sah African), Debre Damos Monastery (men only -- I had to be raised & later lowered 45 feet by a goat-skin rope), and several rock-hewn churches (not like Lalibela's monolithic structures, but small churches carved into the cliffs of N Tigray).

Addis:  we watched about 400 movies and countless hours of tv while Jenn convalesced, but at least we made it to the museum to see The Lucy.  That was truly fantastic (the Lucy, that is).

I could ramble on for hours about Et and its culture, people, history, etc.  I won't however, but I would be happy to talk more when we get home.

    & nbsp;