March 27.  We are now in Quito, Ecuador.  Since leaving Chile, we have had some amazing adventures.  Ecuador is an incredible country.  It has so many diverse landscapes -- the Andes highlands, the Galapogos Islands, and the Amazon Basin rainforest and jungle -- even though it is a very small country.  The people are incredibly friendly, the food is surprisingly good, and the spanish is easy to understand.  The past month has just been absolutely fantastic and we have had a wonderful time here.

We have spent several days, at different times, in Quito -- the country´s capital city and a world heritage site.  Quito is actually quite modern in many respects, although you can still find plenty of traditional culture -- from the food, to the campesino (traditional andean peasants and people from the countryside) people selling their goods on the streets, and to the traditional andean music bands playing in the parks.  In addition, Quito has, surprisingly in my opinion, a lot of good restaurants -- in fact, we have more restaurants on our list to try than we actually have nights to do so.  We have had mexican, cuban, brazilian, argentinian, ecuadorian, and even italian food.  The best part about Quito, however, is the old city and its museums.  Just today, we visited a fantastic museum featuring art work from the pre-columbian, colonial, and modern eras.  Tomorrow, we plan to wander the cobblestone, narrow streets of Quito´s old quarter, which is filled with colonial buildings and churches, as well as museums.  Finally, Quito has quite a cultural scene, with many opportunities to hear local music and see traditional dance.

After our Galapogos adventure, which I will discuss soon, but before our jungle adventure, which will also receive its turn, we spent 4 days in Banos -- a small town in the Andean highlands.  Banos features a stunning location.  The town sits in a valley and is surrounded by huge Andes peaks, including the actuve Tungahuanga Volcano (almost 6,000 meters tall).  In fact, one night we were awakened by a small eruption and the ensuing earthquake!  The town also sits on a river, and numerous waterfalls and natural baths-hot springs are spread throughout and around the town.  We actually spent our time above the town, in a spa resort located high up on an Andean foothill mountain.  The view was gorgeous, the food was great, and Jenn loved the spa services.  For the most part, we just rested and relaxed, although we did find some time for a day hike (what should have been an hour hike actually turned into something much longer, but we did get to see that waterfall!). 

Our trip to Ecuador also featured a visit to Otovalo -- S America´s most famous indigenous market.  The market was huge, the shopping was great, and the people-watching was fantastic.  The locals maintain very traditional lifestyles ¨(as they have since before Inca times) and are very proud of their heritage.  The bus ride was also wonderful, because -- like the bus ride to Banos -- we were treated to fantastic views of the Andes mountains and the valleys that sit between them.  The highlands of Ecuador -- with green foothills (they look as though they are covered in moss), huge volcanoes (most over 15,000 feet), sweeping valleys, thundering rivers, and impressive waterfalls -- are just stunning.

The most notable aspects of our Ecuador adventure, however, relate to our Galapogos Islands and Amazon Basin Jungle trips.  Both were absolutely incredible -- adventures of a lifetime.

First, the Galapogos.  We spent 8 days aboard the Guantanamera.  Although our cabin during the first 3 nights was horrendous (we eventually sang the Jeffersons theme song) and the bartender was an ass, our boat was actually quite comfortable.  And regardless of the boat, the real fun of visiting the GI´s involved our daily excursions, via zodiac raft, to the various islands.  Our daily routine was something like this:  early breakfast; excursion to an island for a nature walk; snorkel; eat lunch; snorkel again; late afternoon excursion for another walk; eat dinner; go to bed early.  If it sounds monotonous, please rest assured that it was not.  In fact, I was pleasantly surprised (stunned, even) at the diversity of what we saw and did.

Each island we visited was dramatically different from the others -- not only in terms of scenery and landscape, but also in terms of animals.  Some animals, such as sea lions, we saw every day . . . but even that did not grow tiresome, largely because of the different settings and behaviors we witnessed.  The islands themselves were just beautiful -- some because of white sand beaches, others because of volcanic rocks, others because of inland lakes, and still others because of dramatic cliffs and rocks.

As for animals, we saw SO MANY . . . and UP SO CLOSE.  In the GI´s, the animals have evolved in such a way that they have little fear, largely because there is a lack of predators.  As a result, you can, quite literally, go right up to the animals . . . almost touching them.  Very few places on earth involve such an experience.   We also saw animals that exist no where else on earth -- and learned a lot about the 9 million or so years of evolution that has allowed some of these bizarre creatures to develop, such as the marine iguana . . . the only iguana on earth that actually dives and submerges itself into the ocean. 

I never imagined I would enjoy seeing birds, but I sure did in the GI´s.  In fact, my favorite animal was the Blue Footed Booby -- largely because we saw them ¨dancing¨and performing their mating rituals.  Absolutely fascinating to watch as the men whistle, sky point, and give the females presents.  Usually, she just sqwaks and turns away, but every once in a while . . . I even caught ¨the act¨live on film.  We also saw gorgeous red footed boobies, nazca boobies, frigate birds (including the males who inflate their red necks to attract females), finches (the species that was most instrumental in Darwin´s development of his theory), pelicans, tropic birds, swallow tail gulls, herons, flamingos, and numerous others.  The bird life was just astounding, as were the various interactions between them -- for example the frigate birds who harass the boobies until the boobies regurgitate their food, which the frigates then steal -- from midair -- while flying.

We also saw a host of reptiles -- galapogos tortoises (including lonesome george at the Darwin research station), land iguanas, marine iguanas, lava lizards, and others.  The colors of these animals was fantastic, particularly the red and green iguanas.

The sea lions were so much fun to watch, particularly when staring face to face with them in the ocean while we were snorkeling.  One day in particular, when we actually played with the sea lions for about an hour, was probably the highlight of our entire GI trip.  We saw beachmasters (alpha males) patrolling, pups nursing, juveniles playing . . . the sea lions were just a wonderful experience.

Finally, our favorite part of the GI trip was the daily snorkeling excursions.  I had no idea that snorkeling would be such an integral part of the trip, and I am so happy that it was.  We saw an incredible amount of sea life, up close in very clear water.  In addition to the sea lions, we also snorkeled with countless species of tropical fish, big tuna, penguins, rays (a HUGE marble ray, the size of a small car . . . as well as beautiful sp otted eagle rays . . . and countless ¨standard¨sting rays), and a host of other fish as well.  In addition, the coral and underwater volcanoes were, at times, breathtaking.  And finally, I almost forgot, we snorkeled wi th a lot of very big sharks -- only (harmless) white tips and galapogos sharks, but sharks nonetheless.  They are such beautiful animals -- so graceful and powerful -- and when you snorkel with them, you gain a new appreciation entirely.  Their villified reputation is wholly undeserved, and the shark finning practices around the world must come to an end (when companies catch sharks, cut off the fins, and then dump the carcass back into the water; the shark dies a painful death so shark fin soup, an alleged aphrodisiac, can be served in asian countries -- absolutely disgusting). 

Thus, we would highly recommend a trip to the GI´s.  In very few places on earth can you have such an entertaining and educational experience -- all at the same time. 

Our other huge adventure here in Ecuador involved our trip to a jungle lodge -- Yuturi Lodge -- in the Amazon river basin.  The trip started with a 30 minute flight to Coca (although we had to make the trip 2x, due to mechanical problems!!!!), and then a 6 hour motorized canoe ride down the Napo River -- one of the Amazon´s main tributary rivers.  The ride down the Napo had me a little disappointed -- although we could see jungle, the river did not look that different from the Severn in MD, and the banks featured too much development -- mainly due to oil drilling and exploration.  Eventually, however, we turned off the Napo and onto the Yuturi River -- a smaller, tributary river.  Once we made that turn, I was no longer disappointed.  In fact, I felt like Kurtz from Heart of Darkness (I know he was in Africa . . . but my point remains the same).  The Yuturi River was exactly like you would imagine a jungle or rainforest river should look -- dense, thick jungle on both sides, seemingly choking the narrow river.  Birds flew overhead in abundance, a myriad of strange calls and sounds echoed from the depths of the forest -- leaving to your imagination what might be watching you from the banks -- and the only non-nature sound was that of our oars dipping into the river.  Just magical.

Once arriving at Yuturi Lodge, it just kept getting better.  The lodge was surrounded by nothing but forest and jungle (and right on the river), the cabins were done in traditional indigenous architectural style, and the generator shut off -- without exception -- at 10 p.m.  Our dining hall, which featured gorgeous views, a birdwatching tower, and plenty of hammocks, was frequented not only by our good meals, but also by the resident, and rather large, tarantula (high up on the wall).  I watched him almost every night, but the best was when I saw him catch a fly and eat it!!!  Incredible!!!  Even Jenn was mildly interested -- from afar anyway.

The trip was a bit hard on Jenn, but she really grew to enjoy the trip as time went on.  At one point, she described it as a week long episode of fear factor.  And she was, really, right on the mark.  The lodge, including our cabin and bathroom, was filled with ¨creepy crawlies¨(worms, milipedes, spiders, mosquitos, grasshoppers, ants, and even a mouse one night) -- thank god for our mosquito nets (if you could have seen Jenn ¨getting ready¨for bed, you would have died with laughter).  What started as shrieks and Ï want to go home¨, however, eventually became a more light-hearted, ¨well look what friends have joined us in our bathroom tonight.¨ Hysterical.  She was really a great sport.

As for our activities . . . we had many.  Often, however, we just sat in the hammocks and relaxed or read our books.  Other times, we practiced our spanish with the staff or played cards.  The lodge was so incredibly peaceful -- devoid of all modern conveniences -- and the setting was magical, particuarly when we had the lodge ALL TO OURSELVES!!!!  We arrived on a Friday, and the other tourists left on Sunday, without others returning until Wed (the day before we left).  Our extended time also allowed us to have a more in-depth experience, in terms of talking with our local, indigenous guide, and also in terms of seeing the jungle.

After arriving and having dinner, we went on an evening bug walk.  We saw a scorpion, poisonous frogs, snails, a wolf spider, a scorpion spider, milipedes and centipedes, grass hoppers, beatles, and conga ants -- probably the most poisonous insect in the world (one bite would virtually incapacitate a grown man for up to 24 hours -- needless to say a big concern for the next 7 days was avoiding conga ants!!!!)

Over the next several days, we took several walks in the rainforest, during which we learned a lot about the indigenous cultures, as well as the various plants and trees -- particularly their medicinal uses.  We ate rainforest natural peanuts, as well as lemon ants (Jenn refrained).  We put dragon´s blood (from a tree) on our mosquito bites.  We used natural paints for temporary tatoos (I still have mine, actually).  Our local guide, Jaime, was so knowledgeable -- he made our experience an incredible one.  We also took a serious, hard-core trek into the jungle -- a full day trek of about 15km, with very little of a trail (follow the guide with the machete, really).  Aside from the ¨swamp incident¨(during which I pulled Jenn, by mistake, into an anaconda-infested swamp -- only up to her knees, however), we had a really great time.  At least I did.  Personally, I do not think Jenn enjoyed that day too much, but she made it and appreciated it (long) after the fact. 

We did not, much to my chagrin and Jenn´s enjoyment, see any snakes.  I really wanted to see a Boa or an Anaconda.  We did, however, see a friendly taipir (he swam along next to and followed our canoe), capybara (largest rodent in the world), frogs, a host of monkeys (which are VERY hard to see in the jungle), frogs, a caiman (in the pitch black of night), and as stated, a lot of insects.

We also took numerous canoe rides, during which we saw a lot of birds.  Again, I could not believe how much I appreciated the bird life.  Birds of all sizes, with gorgeous colors.  Parrots and parakeets, macaws and toucans, vultures and herons, egrets and kingfishers, flycatchers and hawks.  Just astounding. 

Finally, for activities, we fished for pirannahs.  I even caught one and we (or I, actually) ate one for dinner.  One night in particular was just magical.  The sun was setting, the sky was pink, bats were skimming across the water, and darkness was setting in on the jungle.  That was, truly, a scene I will never forget.

The best part of our jungle experience, however, was probably the isolation, the peacefulness, the solitude . . . and the incredible sounds of the jungle once that generator turned off.

Ecuador is probably not for everyone -- you cannot drink the water, petty theft is high, and the infrastructure is not like the US (although nice hotels abound).  Nonetheless, Ecuador is an absolutely amazing country to visit.  So if you want to rough it just a little bit, then head to Ecuador soon. 

Sorry for the delay in posts . . . but at least we now have a lot to report.  Since we left Argentina, we have spent the last 3 weeks in Chile (we also returned, briefly, to Argentina, but more on that below) -- an incredibly diverse country that has a lot to offer.

Chile, or at least Santiago -- and the Providencia neighborhood in particular -- is, in many respects, a lot like home.  Santiago is a very modern city, with the same amenities and prices we face at home in the USA.  Santiago also, however, has a uniquely latin american vibe -- but you do not really sense that vibe unless you are in the city for a while.  The rest of Chile is also fairly modern, in many respects, and makes for very easy travel.  Undobutedly, Chile has its problems and poorer neighborhoods, but we have not really seen those parts of Chile.  Many Chilenos like to say that Chile is very different from the rest of S America, and we would have to agree.  At the same time, however, the modernity and the conveniences make Chile, culturally speaking, a little more bland than its neighbors.  All of that being said, Chile is a wonderful destination, particularly for people who want to experience S America without sacrificing too much comfort.

We have spent a lot of time in Santiago -- not really doing a whole lot in terms of tourist things, but just relaxing and enjoying ourselves.  We have had a great time staying with and talking to Mauricio and his roommates (a friend of mine that I met while in Africa).  They have been tremendous hosts and have provided us with invaluable insights into Chile and its people -- making our trip a very special experience (traveling is always better when you have an ïnside angle, as opposed to just being a tourist).  Santiago, as noted, is a very modern city -- in many respects, it looks just like any north american city.  At the same time, though, the Plaza de Armas and surrounds is filled with fascinating and huge colonial buildings.  The Plaza itself is abuzz with artesans, artists, and local people selling their wares.  The city also has several good museums -- in particular the pre colombian art museum, which is the best of its kind I have ever seen.  When not sight-seeing, we have spent most of our time just hanging out with friends, watching movies, eating good food, and relaxing.  Oh, and saving $$ to afford what you will read about next.

For 4 days and 3 nights, we lived in luxury -- albeit the adventurous kind -- on the Mare Australis cruiseship.  For a description even better than my words, go to www.australis.com and look at the Ushaia to Punta Arenas trip -- ignore the prices, though, because we got a much better deal.

From Santiago, we flew to Ushaia, Argentina -- back to the land of cheap, amazing steak houses for at least a couple of nights.  While there, we visited Tierra del Fuego NP and rode the old convict Ënd of the World Train.  The scenery was magical and the history was even more interesting -- especially since the prison operated until 1960.  Imagine being sentenced to a prison which is, quite literally, at the end of the world.  We also hiked up to Marino Glacier, just a few kilometers outside of the town.  The setting was beautiful and the glacier was fantastic -- we actually got quite close, but did not walk onto the glacier.

Thereafter, we boarded the Mare Australis.  The boat was fantastic -- in fact, our room on the ship was nicer than most of the places we have stayed throughout our travels.  The food was incredible, and the bar was always open (and free -- well, not really).  The ship´s crew was knowledgeable, helpful, and friendly -- every day they gave presentations and lectures, ranging from mixing cocktails to the Magellanic penguins . . . from the history of Patagonia to tying sailor´s knots.  While the ship had plenty of activities to offer, there was also a lot of down time -- to relax and just sit and watch the incredible, breath-taking scenery passing by.  Whether we were cruising the Beagle Channel, the Strait of Magellan, around Cape Horn, or Chico Fjord, looking out of the huge windows in the sky lounge (or just standing on the deck) was a surreal experience.

The most amazing part of the cruise, I think, was just stopping and thinking about where we were -- quite literally at the end of the world.  I just kept looking at the map and gps chart on the wall, shaking my head, and thinking, Ï cannot believe we are really here.¨

We also went on some unreal excursions -- on zodiac rafts!!!!  We stopped on Magdalena Island in the Strait of Magellan to marvel at over 120,000 penguins and their nests -- they just come right up to you!!!!  We stopped in Wuluaia Bay, hiked, and just marveled at the tranquility and the view of the Darwin Mountain Range.  We zodiaced (is that a word?) to within feet of Pia Glacier -- a huge glacier that resembles the NYC skyline -- in the iceberg riddled Chico Fjord.  And perhaps most incredibly, we landed, literally, on Cape Horn and walked around the Cape.  That one, I honestly could not believe.  We were even able to send my dad a postcard -- he deserves it, given the fact that he is the best house and dog sitter ever.

Finally, the people on our cruise were fantastic.  Larry and Betty Lou, Bill and Corrine, Pauline and Gilbert -- our dining companions -- really made our trip special.  You could not really imagine a more diverse group.  In fact, I felt I had a better chance of being struck by lightning than ever ending up in such a group . . . but that just made the experience even more fun and worthwhile.  All of our dining companions have had so many traveling and life experiences, and I cannot emphasize enough how much fun we had (we did not, however, have howler monkey for dinner). 

The only bad part of the cruise was the end, when I, literally, had to drag Jenn off the boat.

The rest of our Chilean adventure was also fantastic, but probably pales in comparison to the cruise.  That being said, we spent 2 days in Torres del Paine NP -- one of the most famous parks in all of the americas.  And it is easy to see why.  We went on some wonderful hikes and were treated to stunning views of the paine grande and the horns.  Our hotel provided the best view, however, because it sat right on the banks of iceberg filled Grey Lake . . . and provided an unreal panaromic view of the Horns and Paine Grande.  Although the food at the hotel was OUTRAGEOUSLY overpriced (as was the room), it was well worth the $$$ and the experience.  Unfortunately, and thanks to a dumb tourist, part of the park was closed due to a fire.  While the tourist left Chile after paying only $200 US, the park suffered irreperable damage.  Nonetheless, we had an incredible experience and would highly recommend TdelPNP to anyone.  The views and glaciers are absolutely breathtaking and jawdropping.

The last leg of our adventure was a leisurely, one week long trek back to Santiago, via the Lakes District.  While not nearly as dramatic as patagonia , Tierra del Fuego, or Torres del Paine, the lakes district is very beautiful in its own right -- and very relaxing.  We ate amazing cakes and pastries and wandered the streets of Puerto Varas, with awesome views of volcan osorno and lake llanghue.  We visited a great history museum and the sea lions feasting at the local fish market in Valdivia.  And we went to incredible hot springs and hiked in Parque Huerquehue near Pucon -- another beautiful town dominated by a lake and a volcano (both named villarica).

Aside from the long, overnight bus ride from Pucon to Santiago (on the cheap bus -- go Jenn the hard traveler), we had a great time.  Chile is, as stated, so diverse and has so much to offer -- and we have not (yet??) been either to Easter Island (a world wonder) or to the north (which has the Attacama -- the driest in the world -- desert) . . . maybe after we come back from Ecuador??? 

Tonight, we leave for Ecuador, so I am sure we will have more posts later.  We will spend a day in Panama City, and then head to Ecuador for our gallapogos islands and amazon jungle lodge adventures.

Well, we are back on the road again -- this time a shorter (2 months) trip to South America.

We started our SA adventure with a 10 day (free layover) visit to Argentina.  We spent most of our time in the wonderful city of Buenos Aires.  We also took a 3 day side-trip to Iguazu Falls National Park, near the Brazilian border.

First, Iguazu Falls . . . .  I have seen Niagara and Victoria Falls, so I was not expecting much.  In fact, I thought we would just see another waterfall.  I was wrong.  Ig Falls was absolutely stunning and far superior to the others I have seen.  The park has over 200 waterfalls, and we saw around 26 of them.  The best part, however, was not the 1,000,000 liters of water per second gushing through the Devil´s Throat, or even the myriad 70 meter waterfalls lining the Argentinian banks, but the overall setting -- a vast jungle and rainforest.  The entire scene was just magical.  Finally, we embarked on a ¨Grand Adventure,¨ which consisted of a jeep jungle ride and a speedboat ride, quite literally, into and through some of the canyons and waterfalls.  Aside from our crappy hotel in Port Iguazu, we had a fantastic time at the Falls.  It is easy to see why IF is considered one of the world´s natural wonders.

Second, Buenos Aires . . . a wonderful city.  BA defied our expectations in many ways, because it is very modern and developed.  At the same time, however, it has a distinctly latin american feel . . . and there is no mistaking that you are not at home.  There was no ONE sight or MAJOR monument that made our visit in BA special.  In fact, from a traditional tourist/city tour/photo-snapping perspective, BA is not really that special.  Nonetheless, it is a fascinating city . . . and when you really explore what it has to offer, you cannot help falling in love with the city and its environs.  We spent most of our time walking the streets -- people watching, markets everywhere, great colonial architecture -- and just soaking in the atmosphere.  BA has so many interesting neighborhoods, but our favorite was La Boca.  LB is a working class district with a strong artesan community and bohemian flavor.  Along with the ubiquitous tango dancing in the streets and craft stalls, all of the buildings in LaBoca are painted in vibrant, bright colors.  In addition, we saw a lot of movies -- in these great, old-fashioned movie houses (2 tix and 2 popcorns cost $2; do not, however, waste your time/money on Seed of Chucky -- a real loser even for $2).  Last but not least (in fact, last but best), we ate like royalty . . . for pennies on the dollar.  Every meal was a treat -- the steaks were just incredible.

In sum, we cannot say enough about BA.  If you visit, allow yourself some time to really explore the city . . . and so that you can justify eating several meals!!! 

Hard to believe, but we are finally coming home -- at least for a while.  We will be back on Dec 12th  . . . so feel free to give us a call at home on the 13th and after!!!  Hope everyone is having a good holiday season.

Many people, apparently, visit NZ as an afterthought -- usually on the way to/from a vacation to Australia.  Don't let that happen to you.  The most common reaction from other people is something like:  "I wish we had spent more time in NZ, or just skipped Aus altogether and came here."  Despite the cold and often wet weather, we have found NZ to be an amazing vacation spot.  The whole S Island is, basically, a big nature reserve and adventure playground.  In such a small space, there are so many things to do -- and such diversity and contrasts.  Much of NZ resembles CO or MT (perhaps as they existed 100 years ago), while other parts resemble the Pac N'west -- and some areas represent a combination of those areas.  NZ is, basically, one giant postcard -- the kind of place you could get out and take a great photo every other 10 feet.  Mountains, ocean, farmlands -- all converging together . . . so green . . . just beautiful.

After a few days sight-seeing and relaxing in C'church (the big city, at 340,000 people), we headed out for a 9 day camper van adventure.  We had a great time, and saw so much beautiful scenery.  We spent a few days in Kaikoura, where we swam/snorkelled with seals!!!!  Just an incredible experience.  We also took a scenic cruise in Abel Tasman NP and then walked the famous coastal track.  From there, we headed to Picton, where we enjoyed and sea kayaked in the Marlborough Sound.  All in all, we had a great 9 days and really enjoyed the S Island.

Now, we are back in C'church -- we'll do a bit more sightseeing and also head to Akaroa, where we'll swim/snorkel with wild dolphins.

Then, as you know, we leave on Dec 12th -- we'll be home in our beds that night.  Hard to believe.  Looking forward to talking with everyone and to showing anyone who is interested our photos.

See below for 2 new posts -- Aus & Bali.  For now, just a quick comment about the news and why the 3rd world is so far behind . . . .

While in Bali, we saw several news reports about heavy fighting in Iraq, and even about a US-led invasion into Fallujah.  Isn't that funny?  Bali, a developing country, is so far "behind" that its news reports are almost 18 months old.  Everyone knows the US already invaded Iraq a long time ago, and that the US declared victory a long time ago as well.  I distinctly remember W in his flight suit, standing on an aircraft carrier, declaring an unequivocal victory.  The developing world really needs to catch up and get its act together.

See below for another new post today -- about Bali.

From Nov 14 until the end of the month, we spent just over 2 weeks in the Land Down Under.  We did not eat a vegemite sandwich and the man sure didn't plunder.

We spent 10 days in Sydney.  During those 10 days, we went to Darling and Sydney Harbors (quite a few times -- while the Opera House was photogenic, D Harbor was actually, we thought, a bit nicer), visited 2 aquariums (saw a platypus, a seal sanctuary, a dangerous animals show, and learned a lot about sharks), went to some museums (related to the prison systems and Aus's convict history), walked around the historic Rocks district, and visited a few zoos (the snakes and spiders were amazing -- see also the next sentence).  Jenn, to her wonder and pure elation, was able to see, pet, and spend some QT with several local koalas -- her new favorite animal.  She also hand-fed kangaroos and held a baby wallaby.  We also took a day tour of the Blue Mountains (hills actually, at least by CO standards; while the rainforest was scenic, the boomerang practice was, I thought, the best part), as well as a really fun tour of the Hunter Wine Valley (a wine tasting tour by bicycle).  Finally, we spent a day at the lovely Manly Beach.

After Sydney, we spent 4 relaxing days on Magnetic Island in North Queensland.  MI is a beautiful, largely undeveloped, and very low key island (most of it is a protected reserve).  The weather was fine, but the wind prevented us from too many watersports.  Nonetheless, we did go out to the Great Barrier Reef.  The dive trip was incredible -- an amazing underwater national park, and I even saw (several times and up close) a 6 foot white tipped reef shark.  We also took some scenic nature walks and even spotted a koala in the wild (sleeping, of course, as they do 20 hours a day).  We also saw a lot of beautiful birds.  Finally, our self-contained apt was right on the beach, and we were even able to put together a pretty good traditional T Day dinner (everything but the gravy and pumpkin pie).

Now, we are in Chirstchurch, NZ.  In 2 days, we head out in our camper van for a 9 day road trip around the S Island!!!  We'll look forward to posting about NZ soon, but we may be posting from Denver -- since we should be home around the middle/towards the end of this month.  Hard to believe!!!

Sorry for the lack of posts -- quite embarrasing, actually, especially since we have had email available.

BALI:  Thinking about a tropical/island vacation?  Forget about St. ____.  Think Bali.  Long flight?  Yes, but well worth it.  If you like gorgeous beaches, amazing culture and architecture, tons of activities, incredible food, and cheap deals, then Bali may be for you. 

Unfortunately, we only had 7 days to spend . . . but we made the most of them.  During that time, we had plenty of R&R, but we also went scuba diving (around the USS Liberty -- a WW2 wreck) and saw some amazing coral and fish.  We also went white water rafting.  The last thing I would have thought of, but what a blast!!!  The rapids were pretty good, but the scenery -- through a deep, narrow, waterfall-filled, rainforested canyon -- was even better. 

We also ate like kings/queens -- for cheap!!!  The local food was a blend of indian, chinese, and thai, but also unique and distinct -- a lot of spices and fresh seafood (one night we even sat on the beach and ate fresh seafood while watching a gorgeous sunset).  The most popular dish is rice, surrounded by all kinds of meats/noodles/fish/and veggies. 

Finally, the culture was incredible.  While Bali is somewhat touristy (a good tourist infrastructure), the locals mix freely and go about their lives as if no tourists are even there.  Like many hindu cultures, Bali is a land of festivals -- one is almost always taking place.  The architecture -- mainly the temples, but even the traffic circles -- is an incredible blend of indian/hindu statutes and structures that look like Japanese pagodas.  We saw several temples and even visited a local's home (every house has its own temple).  We also witnessed, daily, the locals making "offerings" (incense and fruits/food/nuts) to the gods -- sometimes at temples, but also at traffic circles, street corners, and just about everywhere else.  Bali hindu culture is a fascinating mix -- basically traditional hinduism has been layered onto animist/traditional beliefs, and that culture is thriving today.  The hi-light of our trip, however, was to witness a cremation ceremony, which was unlike anything we have ever seen.  From the body purification ceremonies, to the street procession, to the funeral pyre and actual cremation ceremony, it was an amazing site to behold (and not, by any means, just a tourist production).  The time, effort, and emotion that went into that ceremony -- and he was just a "middle class guy"-- was overwhelming.  We were very privileged to partake in such an event -- and wait until you see the photos of the funeral procession (particularly when the bearers, while dodging power lines, made 3 circles at the intersection in order to "confuse" the evil spirts).

Despite the long flight, we would higly recommend Bali to anyone!  Bali has a tourist infrastructure to cater to all needs and budgets.  The people are probably the friendliest we've met so far.  Just a wonderful experience.

See below for a final post on India.

We just spent 4 nights/days in Bangkok.  Tomorrow, we head to Bali where we'll spend a week (11/6 - 11/13) . . . then to Sydney (arriving 11/14).

Although we have been to Bangkok before (and "did" most of the major tourist sites), I think we had an even better time this go round -- and we, for the most part, skipped the sites.  Instead, we wandered through the markets -- the sights, sounds, and especially the smells from the thai food street carts & stalls are just incredible.  We also did some shopping -- the "knockoffs" are fantastic . . . . and you can sit and leaf through HUNDREDS of dvds/cds/PS2 games, pick the ones you want, waith 5 minutes for them to be burned, and then pay about $1 per disk.  Incredible.  Even for someone like me, who does not usually like to shop, Bangkok has been AWESOME. 

After the rigors of India, B is a wonderful pleasure palace -- dunkin donuts, S'bucks, Baskin Robbins, 7-11, cleanliness, no free roaming cows, minimal car horns honking, movie theatres (the nicest we have ever seen -- Dodgeball was hilarious and the Grudge was great) . . . the list goes on.  BKK is amazing -- so modern and so much technology, and yet so different from home.   The skyline is filled not only with modern bldgs, but wats (temples), palaces, and other asian-typed buildings.  The city has such a great vibe and is so alive . . . and the food alone would justify buying a plane ticket and a visit.

We also took a night/dinner cruise -- seeing the major monuments lighted up at night (which we did not do last time) was amazing.  This time, we also had a brief visit to Patpong, although we declined to see the pussy ping pong show.  Finally, we visited a toxicology center and snake farm -- incredible (especially the King Cobra and the moment when Jenn had a python around her neck)!!!!

In short, BKK is just an awesome city.  Have a Singha or a Chiang beer and visit this amazing world-class city.

After the color, palaces, forts, calamity, cows, & camels of Rajasthan, we spent 5 days in the Himalayas -- in Darjeeling.  The area was beautiful -- the foothills alone stand at around 14,000 feet and the skyline is dominated by Kanchenjunga (at almost 6,000 meters, the world's 3rd highest mountain). 

Darjeeling was very relaxing, offered great views, and had fantastic tea (from the famous nearby plantations).  The culture was entirely different -- heavily influenced by the large amount of Tibetan refugees and the large Nepali population.  In fact, we felt as though we were in an entirely different country.  The faces, food, language, attitudes, and atmosphere were a far cry from the free roaming cows, incessant horns, and desert like surroundings in Raj.  In Darjeeling, we were in a peaceful mountain town -- which although touristy to some degree, was as "real" as the rest of India.

Over our 5 days, we did some light hiking, visited a Himalayan zoo (with snow leopards), visited the Himalayan Mtn Institute (a school started by and dedicated to Tenzing Norgay -- a true national hero), trekked to a gompa (Buddhist monastery), and watched the sunrise over the Himalayas (from Tiger Hill at 11,000 feet) -- a truly amazing experience that made the whole jaunt to Darj worthwhile.  As the sun came up and Kanchenjunga turned pink, the crowd of about 1000 people (EVERYTHING in I is crowded) began to cheer.  Like everything else in I, Tiger Hill was a fascinating cultural experience.

Finally, we finished our visit to I with an overnight in Kolkata -- a city with a great vibe (albeit ridiculous traffic and some very disturbing poverty).  While we would have liked to stay another day, we were happy to go to the spa at our hotel (which was AMAZING, although the "flower bath" was maybe a bit much . . . . ) and relax.

All in all, India was an amazing, wonderful, and incredibly interesting experience.  Despite all of her trepidation and fears, Jenn really had a great time and ejoyed I immensely.  Likewise, I found it to be the most fascinating (and lovably bizarre) place I have ever been.  The Taj was the best monument either of us have ever seen, and Varanasi was the most unique and fascinating place -- from a culturual perspective -- that we have ever visited.  If you ever get the chance, and are willing to immerse yourself in a world that is SO different from your own, then head to India and enjoy.  While maddening and frustrating at times, it really is a magical place (and the food is quite good as well -- we both survived a month without any stomach problems).

We are sitting in an internet cafe in Varanasi, India.  We arrived in Delhi, India on Oct 7th, after our nice layover in Mauritius.  Since that time, our itinerary has been as follows:  (1) 2 days in Delhi (1 relaxing and 1 site-seeing); (2) a 15 day tour, by private car, of Rajasthan (Delhi - Mandawa - Bikaner - Jaisalmer - Jodhpur - Udaipur - Pushkar - Ranthambore - Jaipur . . . and then to Agra); and (3) from Agra to Varanasi by train. Tonight, we head to the Himalayas (Darjeeling) by train and then a bus.

Posting about India will be somewhat hard, because this country is very difficult to describe.  Basically, to really understand what this place is like, you need to see it for yourself.  India is, in almost every way imaginable, unlike anything else we have ever seen or experienced.  Other people have told me that being in India is like being on a movie set.  We would agree with that, but might also add that being in India is like being in a video game -- the craziest game you've ever played (sort of like Grand Theft Auto meets Mr. Toad's Wild Ride meets Nascar meets Animal Farm . . . . just absolultely crazy).  Being in India brings out many emotions -- the poverty and despair are very confrontational and disturbing, but the energy and frenetic pace (of everything) is invigorating.  It is such a complex country, not only because of its size and diversity of population, but also because of its many paradoxes.  It is a huge democracy, with a large upper and very viable middle class.  Yet it also has so much poverty and government/polit ical violence.  Everything here is inexorably related not only to religion, but also to the caste system.  Reading the paper each morning is a fascinating social exercise.  Many articles are very similar to ones we read at home (e.g., which movie stars appeared at a function last night), while others are just incomprehensible (e.g., villagers clashing with police about where/when they can immerse their sacred idols into a holy river during the Durga festival).

In sum, this place is absolutely insane, but also one of the most amazing places we have ever seen.

Delhi:  I don't know what we expected (huge piles of lepers everywhere maybe?), but D was, really, not so bad.  In fact, while we would not move there any time soon, D was kind of a nice place to spend 2 days.  We saw some amazing sights, including the spot on which Gandi was assasinated and Humayan's tomb -- an amazing piece of Mughal architecture.  D also had a lot of open space and some nice parks. 

Rajasthan:  Just amazing.  Over the course of 2 weeks, we saw some incredible forts, palaces, and temples -- far too many to describe in detail here.  In particular, the fort at Jodhpur was amazing.  Perched high on a hilltop, the fort -- built in the 16th c -- had never been conquered.  The exterior was surpassed only by the amazing palaces on the inside.  I also loved Jaisalmer, where we took a camel ride in the desert and wandered the streets of the J Fort (where people still live today).  J was like being on an Indiana Jones set -- the city, all in golden sandstone, literally rises out of the desert.  We also stayed in some amazing hotels -- actual palaces (where the maharajas still live!!!) that have been converted -- at least in part (see the parentheses above) -- to hotels.  We also visited Jain Temples in Ratakpur -- the most amazing, beautiful churces we have ever seen.  The carvings were just incredible and the temples, built over 500 years ago, were immaculate and appeared brand new.  Finally, in Ranthambore, we went on 2 game drives and not only had our best leopard sighting of the trip, but also got a glimpse of a bengal tiger.  Our experiences in Raj were far numerous than those listed here, but the rest will have to wait.  It is a colorful, vibrant place, filled with some of the most interesting and amazing monuments we have ever seen.

Agra:  The Red Fort was great.  The Taj Mahal, on the other hand, is impossible to describe with words.  No matter what your expectations may be, the TM will surpass them.  As we came through the entrance arch, we both just stopped and were incapable of talking for at least a minute.  The TM is, undoubtedly, the greatest and most awesome monument either of us has ever seen.  It is a stunning, take-your-breath-away type of experience that must be seen to be truly understood (no matter how good a picture, that pix cannot possibly capture the majesty of this 16th century mausoleum).

We also had an amazing time just people-watching.  The diversity of people here is fascinating.  Likewise, I have been fascinated by the traffic -- particularly at the traffic circles.  Road rules seem to exist (all of the locals seem to know about and abide by them), but I cannot figure them out for the life of me.  Forget about terrorist attacks and insurgency problems.  If you want to worry about us, then worry about us being on the roads (a problem that has followed us since we left London).  Try to picture a traffic circle, much like one in Europe (or New Jersey).  Around that traffic circle is a countless number of things, all going at the same time in every direction -- cars, trucks, buses, motor-bikes, bicyles and cycle rickshaws, autorickshaws (like go karts), jeeps, and minivans, not to mention people, dogs, cows (which are free roaming everywhere), pigs, goats, donkeys, and camels.  Sitting and watching a traffic circle in India (or being in the middle of one) is one of the craziest and wildest things we have EVER seen.

Varanasi:  India's holiest city and home to the sacred Ganges River -- a place to which every Hindu must make a pilgrimage (to bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges, which will wash away sins).  That same Ganges, by the way, is the place where Hindus throw the ashes of their cremated bodies (or, if the person is poor and cannot buy enough wood, the partially cremated body).  V has been, undoubtedly, the most amazing cultural experience either of us has ever had.  We spent a lot of time in V just relaxing (just walking around India is exhausting -- the heat, pollution, constant touts and taxi drivers, not to mention the insane traffic and incessantly blaring horns), but we also took 2 boat rides on the Ganges:  one at sunset, and one at sunrise.  As we floated along in our rowboat, what we saw was indescribable -- just unreal.  Basically, you hire a boat and then row up and down the river, along the ghats (basically docks).  Each ghat is different/unique -- some have temples, while others have restaurants; some are holy (or holier than others), and some are preferred by different Hindu sects (e.g., Jains).  While on our boat rides, we saw festivals, people making puja (prayer), and a lot of prayer candles that light up the river.  We also floated past the crematorium ghats, with the fires burning 24 hours a day (let's just say Jenn is glad she did not wear her contacts and could not really see what was happening!!!).  In that very same river, we saw people praying, bathing, swimming, frolicking, and even brushing their teeth.  The truly amazing thing about the Ganges is that, while many tourists are floating by, it is NOT a tourist show -- not at all.  The chance to experience, first-hand, this type of ancient cultural and religious practice was truly mind-blowing, and one we will never forget.

Tonight, we head to Darjeeling and the Himalayas, where we will be immersed in Tibetan/Buddhist culture.

Again, India is a place that needs to be seen to be really understood -- in fact, to be believed.  I will try to post more later, but that's it in a nutshell for now.

See below for an additional new post about Mauritius.

Capetown, as we have said before, was amazing.  We spent about 3 weeks there, during which we did so many incredible things.  We also met so many wonderful people -- S Africans are very helpful and friendly (e.g., when the chef -- while still working -- gave us a ride home from his restaurant . . . and the guy in Hermanus who just gave us postcards).  To name just a few of our activities:  (1) an amazing visit to Mandela's former prison-home, Robben Island; (2) the cable-car at Table Mtn with its amazing views; (3) a day drive around the Cape Penninsula, including Chapman's Peak, Cape Point Nat'l Park (we actually hiked to Cape Pt -- the s'western most point in Africa), and Boulder's Beach (beach covered with free-roaming penguins); (4) a trip out of Hout Bay to seal island and a kelp forest (in a glass-bottomed boat); (5) an amazing hike, with 360 views of CT and its surrounds, up Lions Head; (6) 2 shark cage dives (the 2nd was incredible --- at least 3 great white sharks swam, quite literally, inches away from me while I was in the cage); (7) some great, up-close land-based whale watching in Hermanus (southern right whales); (8) a history walking tour of CT; (9) of course the wine country and wedding (posted extensively earlier); and a number of other things that don't come to mind right at the moment.

The bottom line is this:  CT is one of, if not the best travel spots in the world, so if you ever get the chance, do not hesitate.  You will love it.  It is cheap (weak Rand), beautiful, friendly, and offers SO MANY things to do and see.

We're off to India in a few hours -- promise to post again soon.

Sorry for the lack of posts recently, but we have been very busy -- relaxing and resting on the Indian Ocean island of Mauritius before we head to India (we leave tonight/tomorrow at 2:30 a.m.).  For the last 6 days or so, we have been here at Ocean Villas resort (ok a budget resort) in Grand Bay. 

We have had a very relaxing and nice time, but just about anything would have been at least a bit of a let-down after Cape Town (we will have to post on that later, if I have time).

Mauritius is a very relaxed place, yet we found plenty to do.  Most of all, we relaxed on the beach, but we also waterskiied in Grand Bay, went snorkeling twice (great visibility and a lot of fish), and took a "bannana boat" ride.  In addition, we went scuba diving one day, which was fantastic . . . moray eels, a huge school of fish, and stone & lion fish were just some of the high-lights.  We also, interestingly, went to the local race track on Saturday -- the biggest and most important day on the island.  Despite being pick-pocketed, we had a great time.  We won our first bet, and then proceeded to lose like 6 races in a row.  From a cultural perspective, that day was one of the most fascinating we've had yet -- and we also had a lot of fun.  Finally, we ate some great seafood and met some really nice people.

Mauritius was not really as "parasise-like" as Zanzibar, but is a beautiful island with a relaxed, pleasant feel.  It is very clean and the people are quite friendly.  Definitely a great stop, especially if you ever have a lay over between S Africa and India (and a free lay-over at that).

Buck up hard core travelers, because game on starting tomorrow -- Delhi it is and then India for a month!!!!!!!!  Jenn looks nervous just sitting here reading over my shoulder.

I am very proud of our marriage.

Sept 21

We are now back in Capetown, where we will be until Sept. 30th.  The last few days have been quite special.  On Sept 15th, we headed out of CT for Franschoek, a quaint, picturesque town set in a beautiful valley in the heart of SA's wine country.  For 3 nights, we treated ourselves to some luxury at LaCouronne -- a beautiful hotel, set on a vineyard and perched above the Franschoek valley.  Our room with a view (and a thing that heats your towels in the bathroom) was lovely and the gourmet food was excellent (including the wine that came with dinner).  The hotel staff even turned down our bedsheet every night and left 2 mints.  During our stay in Franschoek, we visited several wine estates for tastings -- the wine was good (except for a few wines, of course) and the estates, particularly the flowers and the Cape Dutch architecture, were beautiful. 

The highlight of our visit to F (and of our trip overall), however, took place in the early evening of Sept 16th.  While at LaC, we found a pretty spot on the estate's gardens (part of the gardens overlooking the valley below).  There, we -- just the 2 of us -- exchanged our wedding vows and rings.  Afterwards, we had a very nice dinner -- but not before drinking a bottle of wine to celebrate.  Jenn looked absolutely beautiful.  She would, reluctantly, admit she "looked good for a backpacker."  The truth, however, is that she looked absolutely amazing -- by any standards.  Don't worry -- I took a lot of pictures (thank goodness for a tripod).  We are very happy and are excited to do "it" all over again on June 25, 2005 in Severna Park, MD.

After our stay in Franschoek, we traveled to Hermanus and then Gaansbai.  Despite the rain on Saturday the 17th, we still walked around H and had the chance to see some southern right whales -- they come so close to shore.  In fact, Hermanus is so nice and the whales are so close that we plan on going back (hopefully on a sunny day).

Our last day out of C'town -- Sunday the 19th -- was spent in Gaansbai . . . shark cage diving.  Although the conditions were a bit rough and the visibility was not great, we still had some amazing up-close encounters (right next to the boat) with 2 great white sharks.  Dave DeWaald and I also spent about an hour in the actual cage.  We did not see a lot then, but let me tell you . . . it is quite scary when you see the dorsal fin of a great white only a few feet away.  The cage is very safe, but when you are in it, it does not feel like there is very much between you and the shark!!!!  We also plan on diving again -- hopefully to get a better experience in the cage (better visibility and more GWS's). 

We have been in CT (and the area) since about Sept 8th . . . and it appears we'll be here until Sept 30th.  Soon, I will post about some of the other things we have done in this beautiful city.

See below for 2 other new posts (final Tanzania post and Kruger NP).

We are in Capetown, SA right now -- having a wonderful time.  CT is one of the most beautiful cities on the planet, and there are so many different things to do and see.  Just great.  More on our CT activities later.

For now, a quick update on the wedding front.  Tomorrow, we leave for 5 days.  First, we'll head to beautiful wine country and the quaint town of Franschoek.  There, we'll spend 3 nights and on day 2, we'll exchage our vows.  As you may know, things will be made even more official on June 25, 2005 in Severna Park, MD (so mark your calendars now).

After that, we'll head to Hermanus for whale watching and then, the mackdaddy of them all . . . we'll head to Gaansbai for our shark cage dive.  What a honeymoon!!!  2 Questions remain, however:  (1) will Jenn actually leave the boat and enter the cage during the dive; and (2) will CHG get both of them killed while trying to drive around a country where everyone drives "on the wrong side of the road"??  Wish us luck!!!!!

See below for our final Tanzania posting (also added today).

Currently, we are in Cape Town, South Africa -- an absolutely magical city and a must-see on the african tourist circuit (or any circuit for that matter).  We arrived in SA on Aug 1, spent a couple of days in Johannesburg, went on a 5 day safari in Kruger, and then arrived in C'town on August 8th.  More on our C'town adventures later -- for now, Kruger details.

First, our arrival in SA was quite overwhelming -- paved roads, highways, and stop lights!!!  The modern world, so to speak, which we had not really seen since we left Turkey at the end of June (and in a sense, really, since we had left Denver in mid-May).  Thus, despite Joburg's very bad reputation, we had a good time -- mainly walking around a mall ("downmarket" by Cherry Creek standards -- but a mall nonetheless), drinking vanilla coke, and eating fast food (Wimpy burgers rule).  That may not sound exciting, but for us at the time, it was amazing.  While traveling through E Africa, we did not really think about those things . . . at least not until they were made available to us again.

From Joburg, we took a 5 day safari to Kruger National Park in eastern S Africa.  First, we visited the 3rd largest canyon -- Blyde River Canyon -- in the world.  Although we only spent a few minutes there, we certainly enjoyed the view.  The drive was also amazing as we entered the highveld of S African and then descended into the lowlands that lead into Mozambique and the Indian Ocean beyond. 

Next, we spent 4 days/nights visiting Kruger and the surrounding area.  While we did not stay at a "luxury" camp, we were not exactly roughing things either.  We stayed on a private game reserve (Olifants) and in the Tremisana Game Lodge.  The room was fairly basic, but the grounds were beautiful . . . and right in the middle of the African bush.  In fact, our lodge was surrounded by an electric fence with a sign that said, "danger:  this fence can stop an african elephant, so can send you to the hospital."  More like the morgue, I thought. 

The game viewing in KNP did not match up to that in Tanzania, but we still had a wonderful time and saw a lot of animals (elephants, a few lions -- but only from far away, buffaloes, hippos, kudus, impalas, giraffes, baboons, zebras, crocs, eagles, and many other birds).  The highlights were seeing KNP's famous and huge "tuskers" (elephants) in the river valley, and seeing a pod of hippos scrambling from the land and into the water.  In addition, we saw a lot of KNP -- and it is an incredibly beautiful park.  It is very diverse, with beautiful rivers and a lot of colors (trees, plants, and flowers). 

The other great part of this trip was the diversity of our activities.  Over 4 days, we not only went on 2 long game drives in the park, but also went on 2 bush walks and 2 night game drives on the private reserve (during which we saw the incredibly rare aardvark).  The bush walks were fantastic, particularly when we tracked, saw, and were mock charged (2x) by a wild elephant!!!  Finally, we also visited -- for a 1/2 day -- the Mohololo Wildlife Rehabilitation Center.  Jenn was in 7th heaven and had they let us, we would have stayed as volunteers!!!  We learned a lot about the different animals we had seen, but also heard a lot of sad stories related to poachers.  We got very close to some eagles, vultures (wait until you see those photos), lions, a leopard, a hyena, a cheetah, and an ornery honey badger (which Jenn got to pet).

For those people who want to see african wildlife, but perhaps avoid some of the travel difficulties associated with parts of Africa, then Kruger is for you.  Here in SA you can do it all -- the magic of C'town (which is, in some ways, more like Europe than Africa), the wildlife of Kruger, and countless other tourist opportunities.

Although we have been in S Africa (and out of Tanz) since early September, I am just now posting about our other Tanzania adventures.  After our wildlife safari, we rested up at Buck's in Arusha for a couple of days.  Then, we each went on separate excursions -- before reuniting and spending 7 amazing days on beautiful Zanzibar island.  BTW Tanz is an amazing tourist destination for a # of reasons, but largely because you could do an incredible wildlife safari, then laze on an amazing beach . . . and do so all in about 2 weeks.  Such diversity would make for an ideal vacation -- and both budget and luxury options are available.  In any event, back to our excursions.

Jenn spent 5 days at Makoa Farm -- a working farm and horse ranch near Moshi.  With striking views of Mt. Kilimanjaro behind her (at almost 19,000 feet, the African continent's highest peak), she rode horses, hiked, visited a Chaga tribe village, swam in hotsprings (even though crocs were just up the river!!), ate like a queen (the food was incredible), saw more wildlife (e.g., a 150 year old giant tortoise), walked dogs, learned about local flora/fauna/farming, and relaxed.  All in all, she had a wonderful time.

CHG, meanwhile, went on a 7 day cultural tour through the Hanang District near Babati.  The focus of the tour was to see and experience different cultures and lifestyles.  The tour was also designed so that I actually lived like a rural african villager -- at least for a couple of days.  During those 7 days, I visited schools and local agricultural (and other economic) projects, went on some amazing hikes in the rift valley, rode bikes, canoed on Lake Babati to within 50 feet of a pod of hippos, rode the local chicken buses (I actually sat next to a goat), and visited several tribes and local villages.  I even did 2 homestays -- one with the Gorowa and another with the Barbaig (a cattle-rearing warrior tribe).  The latter was, easily, the most memorable part of the tour.  I actually slept in a grass/mud hut, on a goatskin bed in a local family's boma.  The generosity of those people -- who have nothing -- absolutely amazed me.  This experience, like so many others we've had, was a great reminder of just how fortunate we truly are.  I truly enjoyed the experience, learned a lot, and would recommend this type of cultural tourism to anyone.  While cultural tourism has its critics and valid criticisms, this tour did not feel "touristy."  In fact, this tour was more about connecting with people and sharing ideas. 

Tanzania was an incredible destination, with so many things to see and do.  Visiting Tanzania was quite an adventure, but well worth the effort.  Oh and by the way, much like Uganda, the food was both plentiful and excellent (except for one ill-advised menu selection on Zanzibar Island!!). 

See below for a posting about our amazing Zanzibar experience.

We will say our vows in Capetown sometime during the next 2 weeks.

To make things "official," we will have a ceremony and party in Severna Park, MD next summer.  More details will follow, but the festivities will take place on Saturday, June 25, 2005.

After our wildlife safari, we returned to Arusha for a couple of days and then went on separate excursions -- Jenn went for 5 days to Makoa Farms (a working farm and horse ranch near Moshi) and I went on a 7 day cultural tour through the Hanang District.  We will, later, publish a post about those amazing experiences.  For now . . .

We spent 7 amazing days on Zanzibar Island, which is very close to Dar es Salaam and the Tanzanian mainland, but might as well be a million miles away.  First, we spent 6 days at Bweju Beach on the East Coast.  The beach was absolutely stunning -- lined with palm trees, clear azure water, and white sand.  Conjure an image of "paradise" and you're pretty much there.  For 6 days, we rested and relaxed -- but we also walked on the beach, rode bikes on the beach (a common pasttime on the island) , went scuba diving, played cards and scrabble, and that is about it.  The food, except for one night, was great.  The views were unreal -- probably the most beautiful beach either of us have ever visited (in fact, I was not even bored and wanted to stay an extra day, which is why we stayed for 6 days instead of just 5).

Thereafter, and before flying to South Africa (where we are now -- in Joburg and heading to Capetown tomorrow), we spent a day wandering around Stone Town.  While ST has a reputation for being exotic, we found it a bit dirty and disappointing.  That aside, however, we saw a few neat buildings (strong arab influence in the architecture), an INCREDIBLE sunset into the Indian Ocean, and we ate some very good swahili food.

We will soon post about our other tours in Tanzania, as well as our South Africa experience so far -- a 5 day safari to Kruger Park. 

A wedding date has been set:  more details will follow, but plan on Saturday, June 25, 2005 in Severna Park, MD. 

For 10 days, we lived the Discovery Channel.  We will do our best here to describe what we saw.

Itinerary:  Arusha to Tarangerie NP (2 days); Lake Manyara NP (1 day); Serengetti NP (3 full days, plus 2 half days); Ngorogoro Crater (1 day); and Lake Eyasi and the Hadzabe Tribe (1 day).

Our trip:  We camped the entire time, often without running water.  Our favorite place was in SNP --- Ikhoma Bush Camp, where we spent 3 nights.  The look on Jenn's face when she saw the "open air" toilet and shower was priceless.  Over time, she grew to love the campsite, except when she was attacked by biting ants while showering.  Our food was good and plentiful.  Our driver, Joseph, was great at spotting wildlife (while driving and w/o binoculars).  He also had a penchant for marathon game drives -- full days -- which was great, although we spent a lot of time in the car (a necessary evil of game viewing, unless you want to get attacked by wild animals).  Our nights were spent in the open African bush -- surrounded by beautiful skies at night and the sounds and sights of Africa.  We heard lions roaring at night and even had hyenas in our campsite, which made late night bathroom trips interesting to say the least.  A truly amazing experience. 

Animals viewed (probably missing a few):  lions (females, males, & cubs), leopards, cheetahs, a ton of birds (a variety of eagles, vultures, storks, pelicans, hornbills, and a lot of others), a porcupine, bush babies, hippos, crocs, impalas, thompson & grant gazelles, giraffes, elephants, elands, topis, zebras, wildebeests, red hartebeests, a puff adder (at very close range -- too close probably), a cobra, agama lizards, hyrax, spring hares, serval cats, monitor lizards, dik diks, buffaloes, flamingoes, hyenas, jackals, warthogs, babboons (tons everywhere), chameleons, verveet/blue/colobus monkeys, ostriches, and . . . .  The only 1 we missed was the elusive rhino.

Overview of the Parks:

Tarangerie:  when you think of "Africa," TNP meets the bill -- wide open grasses and plains, waterholes and rives (largely dried up this time of year), animals everywhere . . . but not many people or cars.  TNP is also famous for its beautiful baobab trees.  A truly amazing setting to see animals.  We had 2 long game drives here.

Lake M NP:  incredible and very few people.  So different from the rest.  The settings were varied and beautiful -- lush jungle & forest, a river littered with hippos, the imposing rift valley walls, a soda/salt lake, grasslands & plains, hot springs, and bush forest.  A compact park and an anomaly in the midst of the sprawling grassland plains.

Serengetti:  classic africa with its "sea of open grass" and acacia trees, but much more diverse than I thought.  We saw so much of this park -- with our multiple days and marathon game drives -- grasslands and savannahs, rolling hills, bushland/forest, waterholes and partially dried up river beds, and beautiful kopjes (rock outcroppings).

Lake Eyasi:  not a NP, but a dried up soda lake; local villages and the African bush at its finest.  Here, we spent a few hours visiting the Hadzabe Tribe -- at least one family.  The Hadazabe are, in 2004, one of a few remaining tribes in the world that are still truly nomadic.  They live in the bush (they sleep under the stars) -- really live in the bush.  We followed 2 of the men on a hunt (which meant we wandered through the bush for 2 hours), watched them dance (and danced with them), and participated in bow and arrow target practice.  A once in a lifetime experience.

Wildlife Hi-Lights:  In addition to the host of animals we saw, we saw many amazing behaviors.  The first time you see lions . . . wow.  But then after a few times seeing them sleep (which they do 22 hrs a day), you want to see action.  We saw plenty in SNP.  For example:  during a pre-sunrise drive, we watched a female, for about 10 minutes and about 10 feet from the car, dragging an impala she had just killed back to her cubs.  We later saw 2 lions mating -- actually "doing it."  Unreal.  We also saw, again about 10 feet from the car and with no other cars around, a whole pride feasting on a freshly killed buffalo. First, the male ate -- we saw and heard him tearing the flesh off the bones.  When he was done, the scene of the females lunging on and attacking the carcass was awe inspiring.  While the male was eating, we sat in awe as 6 cubs fought for space on their mother's breast-- as she nursed them for several minutes.

At Lake M, we sat and watched 26 giraffes moving beautifully across the plains.  Several of the males fought by wrapping their necks around each other and butting heads -- a mating ritual.  We also saw 2 giraffes actually mating!!!  Incredible.  The giraffes move quickly when they canter, but appear to move in slow motion.  Also at Lake M, we saw baboons fighting, grooming, and nursing. 

We also saw amazing elephant behaviors.  At Tarangerie, we saw 2 bulls lock tusks and trunks.  At Lake M, we watched them move gracefully across the plains with a stark white soda lake in the background.  We also saw, at Lake M, a huge family eating.  The best, however, was when a baby elephant could not cross over a fallen log -- then his mother behind him lifting him up and pushing him over the log.

In Tarangerie, we saw a waterhole littered with hundreds of zebras and wildebeests in and around the water.  We also stopped in a gorge, where our car was surrounded by countless impalas, zebras, and giraffes.  This type of scene will forever be burned into our memories, and has to be seen to be believed or understood.

In SNP, we were allowed out of the car at a waterhole filled with about 50 hippos and 12 crocs.  We were, we thought, a little too close for comfort!!  We stood in awe as the hippos wrestled, spouted, grunted, and stared at us.  Just unreal.

In Ng Crater, we watched in awe as lions sprawled out on one side of the road, apparently full from their recent kill and feeding frenzy.  In the background, zebras and wildebeests mingled -- quite cautiously -- while hyenas tried to cross the plains and river -- always mindful of the lions nearby.  On the other side of the road, about 200 feet away, a pack of hyenas fought with jackals and vultures as they devoured the very remains of the animal that had, moments before, satiated the lions.  A scene like that -- like so many others we saw -- needs to be seen to be believed.

Words alone cannot capture the majesty of our safari -- or the grime that covered our bodies after 10 days of camping, not showering, and driving on Tanzania's dirt roads.  All we can say is, again, get out of your office and come to Tanzania.  You will be amazed and awed.  Karibu ("you are welcome" in Swahili).

See below for our other post today -- re:  wedding plans and Ethiopia.

After Et, we flew to Uganda, where we spent about 2 weeks.  Ug was much more developed than Et, but that is, of course, quite a relative statement.  When I think of Ug, I think of bicycles loaded down with bannanas, women in brightly colored dresses, bannana trees everywhere, and beautiful green rolling hills and valleys.  Ug was truly beautiful -- you can see why Churchill dubbed it the Pearl of Africa.

We spent a lot of time in Kampala . . . a great city -- very safe, good restaurants, and a great vibe -- but much more time than we would have liked.  Most of our time in Kampala was just transit stops, although we also ran a lot of errands.  Oh yeah, I also spent time at the police station and tourist board trying to deal with the safari driver named ssali who ripped us off (stole $$ and cut our safari short) . . . and Jenn spent a couple of days recovering from her malaria infection (she is fine -- do not worry). 

Our highlights were as follows:

-several relaxing days at a resort right on Lake Victoria (it even had a workout gym and a great pool)

-a game drive in QEP, during which we saw 4 lions (male, female, 2 cubs), waterbucks, elephants, Ug Kobs, and warthogs; a boat trip in QEP that was just amazing -- 2 hours on the Kazinga Channel, filled with elephants, buffalo, hippos (1 almost hit the boat), crocs, and beautiful birds.

-chimp trekking in Kibale Forest - we spent 1 1/2 hours following and watching wild chimps.  Incredible.  We would later see more chimps at the UWEC and at a Sanctuary on an island in Lake Vic, but nothing could top seeing them in the wild

-and the best for last . . . gorilla trekking in Bwindi NP.  After hiking for just under 2 hours . . . and by hiking I do not mean on a path, but right through an amazing jungle (follow the guy with the machete, literally) . . . we heard barking and quite a bit of noise.  Suddenly, we came around a corner, and sitting there was a female 200 lb mountain gorilla.  We froze in awe.  Moments later, we were quite startled by a tremendous commotion.  In a matter of seconds, a huge silverback covered about 15 feet . . . he sort of came out of nowhere.  He then stopped on a dime, sat down, and just crossed his arms.  Right off the Discovery Channel.  We then spent about 1 hour watching these gorillas, from anywhere from 5-15 feet away.  Of the 20 gorillas in the family, we got great views of about 6 of them, including the newborn baby.  All in all, probably the coolest, most awesome experience we have ever had.

Thus, Ug was great -- despite the problems we had with our driver.  We also had a guide named Lawrence who was just great.  Gorillas and chimps.  Get yourself out of your damn office and to Ug -- but first to C'town in late Sept / early Oct . . . one of the most beautiful cities on earth.  And SA has it all -- wildlife, culture, history, and activities.

Aug 4:  Sorry for the lack of posts, but internet access has not been readily available.  Below is a long post . . . covering Ethiopia, Uganda, and other matters.  Right now, we are in Arusha, Tanzania (at Buck Tilley's house).  Tomorrow, we depart for our 10 day safari.  We'll post about that later.  For now . . .

1) A tentative wedding plan is set.  Although we do not have an exact date yet, we are shooting for Capetown, SA -- in early October.  Since you would want to come for at least 2 weeks anyway, plan on coming in late September and staying through the 1st week of Oct.  Please email asap if you can come.  More details will follow.

2) Ethiopia:  We spent a little over 2 weeks traveling around Et.  Our route was:  Addis . . . same day fly to Bahir Dar (2 days) . . . bus to Gonder (2 days) . . . fly to Lalibela (3 days) . . . fly to Axum (2 days) . . . drive to Adigrat and then the next day to Mekele . . . fly to Addis . . . hole up in the Addis Sheraton for 5 days.

Et was . . . well, it really depends on who you ask.  Jenn now claims she actively disliked Et.  However, she also says she is glad she went and that she saw some very interesting things.  Personally, I don't think the girardia infection helped (she was laid up for a couple of days in Addis).  Moreover, I think Et was a rough intro to sub-saharan Africa.  On the whole, though, she is glad she went and she saw some incredible sites.  CHG will tell you that Et is, culturally and historically, one of (if not) the most fascinating places he has ever been.  The scenery was also fantastic -- a far cry from most people's ideas (myself included) about what Et would look like.  Far from being a barren desert, we saw big mountains (up to 3500 meters), fertile plains, huge valleys, and a lot of green countryside.  In fact, the N Highlands around which we traveled are the largest contiguous fertile area in Sub-Saharan Africa.  The scenery was, at times, awe-inspiring.  And those italians really know how to build roads through the mountains.

Culturally, Et is an amazing place.  Et is a sub-saharan african country, and yet it converted to christianity before Rome.  Since that time, in the 4th century, the church has dominated all aspects of life in Et -- amazing how much it dominates.  Moreover, the practices today are virtually unchanged since the 4th century.  Et is not coptic, but is the Et Orthodox Church.  Finally, the jewish influences are astounding (Ets believe the Ark of the Covenant is in Axum, and the role the Ark plays in their lives is significant).  I could go on for hours here, but I will not.

Highlights:  Bahir Dar -- Lake Tana (Africa's 2nd largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile) and its ancient, yet still operating monasteries; we spent the day on the lake, visiting some of these monasteries, with their reliquaries, manuscr ipts, and amazing medieval paintings; we also rode bikes through a village and saw hippos in the Nile.

Gonder -- 17th Century castles in the royal compound; better than most european castles; understand that, in sub-saharan Africa, these types of things simply do not exist.

Lalibela -- the rock hewn churches are, along with Angkor Wat, Macchu Pichu and the Pyramids, the most incredible sites I have ever seen.  How these 12th C churches were completed, no one can say for sure.  They are, literally, carved out of the turfa stone . . . and they are huge, I mean like cathedrals.  We also saw a mass -- these churches are not ruins.  I felt as though I was watching a scene out of the bible and that I had been transported back in time by about 2000 years.  Go to Lalibela.

Axum -- the ruins of one of the greatest, yet least known, ancient empires (1-7th C AD).  A good museum, tombs, and an unexplainable stele (obelisk) field.  I simply cannot understand why more people, historians included, do not know about this empire.

Axum - Adigrat - Mekele (2 days by car):  amazing mountains and incredible scenery, although a very rough ride.  We visited Yeha's moon temple (at 2500 BC, the oldest building in sub-sah African), Debre Damos Monastery (men only -- I had to be raised & later lowered 45 feet by a goat-skin rope), and several rock-hewn churches (not like Lalibela's monolithic structures, but small churches carved into the cliffs of N Tigray).

Addis:  we watched about 400 movies and countless hours of tv while Jenn convalesced, but at least we made it to the museum to see The Lucy.  That was truly fantastic (the Lucy, that is).

I could ramble on for hours about Et and its culture, people, history, etc.  I won't however, but I would be happy to talk more when we get home.

    & nbsp;